Category: Travel / Out and About (Page 16 of 18)

A date with posterity

3:50 I’m feeling a little stuck for something to do here in the centre of Bradford. I’ve just finished a two hour project making sure my name goes down in history. I sat with 16 others working on a tapestry in Bradford Cathedral! I’d seen the event advertised when I went there for a lunch-time organ recital two weeks ago, and so today I just turned up and IMG_6875was welcomed with open arms. Everyone who contributes their needle-working skills is named in a book that will be kept with the tapestry. There’s no telling how long it will take to finish, but a similar finished work of art currently adorns the altar. It ‘s green but there are a series of 4 for each of the seasons. The man who was sitting next to me has the reputation for being the best needle-worker in the group and he told me that he can do 180 stitches per hour. After watching me get started he said, ‘I can see you’ve done this before.’

Tea (and biscuits, of course) were  served halfway through the workshop and I noticed the organist having tea too. For the second half of the sewing we were accompanied by the organist practicing for an upcoming recital in Brighouse. Before I left I asked the assembled group for suggestions as to what I should do for the next three hours since my return train ticket is only valid after 6 p.m. Someone suggested I wander round a district called Little Germany which has large ornate buildings, reminders of Bradford’s world IMG_6867class wool heritage and its German population. Another suggested going into Waterstones
book shop and cafe because it’s housed in the old Woolshop – and that’s where I’m currently sitting There’s a life-size statue of an American man but someone has put a witch’s hat on him. Ha, ha. I didn’t get to the third suggestion which was to visit a former church which is now the Delius Center for the arts. I was a little confounded two week’s ago when I came across a statue of Delius in the Asian Gallery. I had completely forgotten that this quintessential British composer was, in fact, a son of Bradford from german extraction. Wouldn’t you have though he’d be named as one of the famous people from Bradford along with Titus Salt, the Brontës, David Hockney and  . . . .? I explored Kirkgate market where the manicurists (all male)  were doing a roaring trade. So were the kiosks doing eyebrow threading for girls wearing hijabs. Many women are wearing full-face veils.

5:30 I’m sitting outside Wetherspoons on the City Park plaza.It’s directly opposite the Magistrates’ Court and the guy sitting at the next table has apparently just appeared in court, his girlfriend having accused him of beating her up. ‘She were fuckin’ fit an’ awl.’ He’s also accused of kidnapping her daughter in the back seat of his car. He has to reappear in court tomorrow at 9 a.m. Meanwhile two young women sit at another table drinking beer while their children  cavort on the sculptures and fountains in the park. One toddler in a pram at Wetherspoons  is anxious to join her siblings. I burly guy on a bike  is

IMG_6855

If you have a good imagination this could be the Houses of Parliament.

showing off his wheelies and teaching a young teen how to do it, while overhead on the big screen  (that shows Live from the Met operas for free, and the Olympic Games) I can watch the current men’s doubles at Wimbledon. Four girls, each of a different ethnicity, in smart school uniforms ‘hang out’ on the benches.

IMG_6889

I waited until 6:30 to catch the train home where Chris was just leaving to attend a friend’s poetry reading. I watched a bit of Michael Palin Around the World in 80 days (in Egypt and Saudi Arabia) and a bit of Missing Joseph – one of the Detective Lindley series – before I realised that that was the book  I brought with me to read on the trip (and haven’t opened it once!). I booked a night at an Airbnb in Edinburgh for the night before I meet the tour. I need to plan for the night after the tour. Perhaps I should stay there for an extra day and research my ancestral connection with Edinburgh. My great great grandfather, Robert Dean who was a station master at Patricroft moved to the Duddingston area of Edinburgh near Portobello. In 1856 he was still in Patricroft but in 1858 his son John Thomas Fielding Dean was born in Berwick, Berwickshire (now the county of Lothian). His next 4 children were born in Portobello  (1859-1865) and then he returned to Patricroft. I presume that he got a promotion and moved north since his title was railway goods superintendent in the 1861 census,at Portobello, a step up from a railway office clerk  in 1851 at Patricroft. The superintendent had the responsibility of managing the transportation and delivery of goods that were carried by the railway company. Porters would have worked under him. Here’s his uniform.

railway superintendent.png

Of Poetry and Music

IMG_6724

The ‘Brontë Bus’

The bus service is not good on Sundays so the first bus to Haworth today was 12:15. I was going back there for the first annual poetry festival. It certainly had some teething problems with directions to the three venues and it was poorly attended but it was wonderful to hear poets read their new poems about the Brontës. One imagined that

IMG_6738

Inside Charlotte’s school room

IMG_6740[wpvideo v2RN5VN9]

Charlotte had a laptop and Madame Heger had unfriended her on Facebook! Ok, you have to know something about their lives to get it. Some of the poetry was a bit esoteric for my liking but it was lovely to be able to sit in the schoolroom that Patrick Brontë had built for Charlotte to teach in. It’s always been locked up on past visits. I bought a bacon and

sausage butty to take away, and went to sit in the cemetery to have my lunch. The main street, very steep with cobbled was packed with visitors so the cemetery with the cawing rooks was nice and quiet. After lunch I went across to the other venue, the  Baptist chapel to hear some more lively poetry reading.

I had promised myself a bit of souvenir shopping this afternoon so I wandered all the way down the street and eventually found a park that led to the Worth Valley railway which we let the girls go on unescorted when they were little. We drove and met them at the other end. I watched a steam train go by, bought my first 99 of the trip and took the bus back to Hebden Bridge. The journey overt’t tops is remarkable – as are the bus stops in the middle of nowhere. The round into Hebden in winding and VERY narrow, so the bus is just a little

IMG_6732

The Oxenhope straw race

zippy bus, but even so it almost touches both walls in places. On the way up we came to a standstill because the road was closed for the Oxenhope straw race where people dressed in crazy costumes race with bales of hay strapped to their backs. Glad I the photo op.

[wpvideo qz5r2hdh]

The bus ride to Haworth

 

As I got off the bus a crazy saxophone band was playing  in the square. Just another music event from the festival!  I just had time to make a quick meal before heading out to the last event of the Hebden Bridge Arts festival. Tonight it was the turn of the Commoners Choir performing in the town hall. They are a politically active mixed chorus who often sing outside in places like Ilkley Moor. They were very good and I was disappointed to find that

IMG_6801

Commoners Choir

the program was only 45 minutes. There was no program so I’ll have to find out where they are from, and perhaps something about the songs and composers. A day later – they’re from Leeds. They formed a year ago and here is their Donald Trump Song which they sang the English version of – the Boris Johnson song! Brilliant:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ko85iRRkITY

Heptonstall Festival

[wpvideo 0GCV2ivu]

 

 

[wpvideo jEnnp2Hf]

Heptonstall is a tiny, well preserved village at the top of the hill above Hebden Bridge. Rachel and I stayed there for 3 days last year and many years ago, on a family visit from the US we took my mom there to see Sylvia Plath’s grave. It poured down, but we still loved the place, so it was no surprise that the day of the annual festival it was bucketing down. Though I must say that between the downpours the sun came out, and the sky was great for photos. But I got so cold that eventually my fingers wouldn’t press the buttons on my camera, at which point I retreated into the Cross Keys in search of warmth.

umbrealla

The umbrella over the hole in the awning – and the hand that’s holding it up!

Unlike last week when I hiked up the hill I took the bus arriving at midday, the start of the festival. A band was already playing under the awning set up in the ruins of the old church.  A delicious cheese stall, microbreweries, Mexican and Indian food vendors, circus acts were all desperately trying to keep their wares dry. One stall’s roof had a hole in it so they ingeniously put an umbrella over the hole! It was all great fun, but from comments of

IMG_6635 (1)

Town trail rewritten and illustrated by Richard from the museum

people there was a disappointing turn out. Wooden steps had been installed for people to scale the wall from the Weavers Square to the ruins and it was fun to watch the dad’s negotiate these with strollers. There were lots of young kiddies: I wish I could have a raincoat like theirs! To dry off a bit I went back to the museum where 2 weeks ago I had helped Richard rewrite the paragraphs of the Heptonstall guide book. Our work was visible on white boards throughout the village. He introduced me to his friend who gave me a personal performance of his flea circus! Different bands came and went during the course of the afternoon, some from as far away as Manchester (that’s 38 minutes by train). I went off to explore some of the side streets which lead to glorious views of the moors and was almost blown over several times by the gale-force winds. Much of the TV series Happy Valley was filmed here but the communities don’t appear to have cashed in on that link – so far.

IMG_6670

An elderly resident enjoying the beer garden of the White Lion

IMG_7079

 

Wuthering Heights

Press play!

So yesterday I downloaded the iconic Wuthering Heights by Kate Bush. I’d brought a book of walks with me from home (talk bout bringing coals to Newcastle) around Haworth called in the Steps of the Brontës and one of the tougher walks was the one to Top Withins, reputed by some to have been the inspiration for the locations in Emily Brontë’s Wuthering Heights. When Gary inquired if I’d like to go on another walk I suggested something from the book, so soon after 9 he arrived and we set off on a bus that goes over t’tops to Haworth, with fantastic views all around us. The day seemed destined for sunshine and showers but Gary was able to order the showers to coincide with our day and so we didn’t get too wet.

13510884_10209355026133228_2423605508723459632_n

Inside Wuthering Heights

Instead of wandering around the village, which looked surprisingly devoid of tourists apart from one large group of Japanese tourists waiting to get into the museum, we picked up a sandwich in a health food shop where Gary’s request for a ham sandwich was met with a glare and ‘we don’t allow animal products into the shop.’ He changed his order to a cheese sandwich and I asked, rather tongue in cheek if it had ever seen a cow. Naughty, naughty.

13512133_10209355023133153_1124181528031772280_n

Supplied with our sustenance for the day we set off behind the parsonage, passing the church which is clad in construction, and away we went. We traversed through the most brilliant green countryside, meeting the Brontë Bridge at the unspectacular Brontë waterfall. We passed three isolated farmsteads in various restorations but across the valley we could see pastoral countryside with neat walls dividing sheep into regular rectangular spaces. Gary pointed out that the far side faces south and that it’s much more conducive to farmsteading than the poor soil and climate of the north side of the valley. We decided to continue the hike going all the way to Top Withens.

“Pioneer hope squared stones

And laid these roof slabs and wore a way to them.

How young that world was!

The hills full of savage promise.”

From Top Withens by Ted Hughes

 

I’d imagined it was a ruin with irregular walls, but because of its popularity as a hiking destination all the walls have been leveled, concreted safe and the roof removed, so it was a bit of an odd ruin. Whether or not Emily based Wuthering Heights on this particular spot is immaterial to me. What’s certain is that the family spent many hours on these moors and would have know all the buildings we had passed or could see across the valley. We sat there, eating our picnic, blasting Kate Bush’s Wuthering Heights to anyone who cared to listen, including 4 men doing a similar hike to us.

13510945_10209354957251506_2376881766779851370_nContinuing on our way Gary spotted a group of Highland cattle and I saw a large black and white bird making quite a noise at us, and then I saw, what I’d mistaken for sheep’s wool on the grass, several baby birds. I think the mother bird was trying to get us to follow her away from the chicks.

Eventually we came to Stanbury a tiny village, with three pubs and no shop. It was just starting to rain and as we ordered a well-deserved drink the heavens opened. It was a lovely little pub and as we chatted to the landlady it felt as if we were in her living room. When not actually serving someone she hung out in front of the bar with customers. She had pictures of her grandson above the fireplace, a collection of dog plates and some pretty funny posters. The pub is a stopping off point for hikers walking the Pennine Way, and soon we came across Len, an elderly guy who was in his fourth week of walking that long distance footpath, having set off from its northern most part in Scotland. He was having a hard time camping in the five days of constant rain, and complained about blisters. He was heading for a shelter a couple of miles away.

13528659_10209354957131503_8490067861620342994_n

Len walking the Pennine Way

 

We, on the other hand, crossed the dam of the Lower Laithe Reservoir and before we knew it we were back in Haworth. A quick pit stop at the Black Bull, a nosey around a book store, and then the bus back to Hebden Bridge. We were back a’th’ mill by 5:30 where we had a cup of tea, and I returned Gary’s thesis to him, now much more knowledgeable about the rise of Victorian brass bands. Checking my email I see that I am all booked and paid up for my trip to St. Kilda’s in less than two weeks. Yikes!

Of organs and brass bands

4:50. I’m sitting at a picnic table outside The Wellington, sipping a bitter shandy and listening to the drip, drip on the umbrella above me. “Bloody hell! It’s sunshine,” comments the man on the next table as a few stray rays light up the froth on my drink. “Boris Johnson?  You must be fuckin’ jokin’. ‘Ee’s a pathological liar, ‘ee iz!” The conversation continues.

IMG_6385

I’ve just spent the most amazing two hours in St Mary’s  church, Elland. I almost didn’t come here. Well, Elland is not a tourist destination by any stretch of the imagination, but then I’m not a tourist.There seemed to be no redeeming features of this town half an hour’s bus ride south east of  Halifax, except that my great, great, great grandparents were married here on January 30, 1837, Sarah Booth and Joseph Haigh. The vicar had told me that if the church wasn’t open there would be a sign on the door as to who would have the key. I didn’t expect that the sign would say that I could obtain the key from the sweet factory across the street, the very same Dobson’s sweet shop that Gary and mentioned when he learned of my trip to Elland.

IMG_6395

After an initial panic that the factory seems all closed up I saw someone move inside  and I found a buzzer next to the door. “I’ve come for a key to the church.” “Riiiight, luv,” and it was handed to me, just like that. No questions, no signing of name.  At the church it was dark, very dark inside and I found myself somewhat comforted by the Beatles music

IMG_6394

The helpful church warden, Glen Littlewood

blasting from the west tower where I eventually made out a ghost rising into the air – no, a man dressed entirely in white, on a ladder painting the walls. At least there was someone else besides me alive and kicking amidst the tombstones and memorial plaques. I read about the medieval stained glass (very rare), the 14th century arch (similar to the ones in Kirkstall Abbey dating from 11 something), the font, the misericords, and came to realize that of all the churches I’ve been to on this ancestry lark, this one has retained most of the  features that my ancestors would have been familiar with.

After half an hour or so the painter noticed me and introduced himself as Glen Littlewood, the church warden. I explained my mission and as an afterthought asked who had the key to the organ and could I play it. It turns out that his father-in-law is the organist and he took over that role from his father in 1980. His father had held that position for 68 years. Their last name was Haigh – the same surname as my great, great, great grandfather Joseph who married Sarah Booth in 1837. Glen phoned his father-in-law and in ten minutes the octogenarian  arrived happy to give me my own personal recital, beginning, of course, with Bach’s Prelude in d minor. I could see that this man could really play well, and he was very knowledgeable about the stops. The console was built in 1949 and there’s currently a fund-raising project in progress, but it sounded really wonderful to me. Then it was my organ fund turn and fortunately I found a copy of Bach’s  6 Little preludes that I can actually play in a book of music with his father’s name on it. He told me that he had met his wife when he was subbing during one summer at Ely Cathedral. His wife was a violinist who had studied at the Royal College of Music. Glen’s grandad had played trombone in the Brighouse and Rastick brass band and I shall look out for his name on my mom’s old brass band records that I still play. Glen brought out the church records and we found the marriage of Sarah and Joseph (the shoemaker) but neither of them were buried there.

 

IMG_6410

Great curry nite at Wetherspoons, Halifax

Leaving Elland I went upstairs on the bus since I knew that I didn’t have to get off until the bus station. There’s a low bridge on the road where the bus has to pull into the center of the road to avoid hitting the bridge!

It’s 6:15 now and I’ve just managed to negotiate the ordering system at Wetherspoons. I’ve landed on Curry Nite and the place is buzzing. I think I just got the last free table. It must be a favorite after work hang out. It’s primarily filled with small groups of guys standing ignoring  the TV where Jeremy Corbyn is refusing to resign. Large pipes clad in silver foil adorn the ceiling and lights suspended from a spider’s web of cables makes this one of Halifax’s trendiest night spots. For 6 pounds 50 I get chicken tikka masala, naan, 2 poppadums, pilau rice and a pint of cider. That’s a good deal! I can see T shirts, full on suits with ties, leather jackets, short sleeved shirts (because, remember, folks, this is the SUMMER), back packs, laptops cases, school uniforms and even a twin set with pearls. Lots of table sport bottles of wine in ice buckets, and I see a couple of guys alone but they’re playing the slot machines that line one wall. There are no, absolutely no women alone. Neither are there an Indians in here. That’s a bad reflection on the food, but there’s a large Indian restaurant right across the street. A period poster advertises Quality Street toffee, Rollos and Weekend, all made here in Halifax. In fact the factory is about 500 yards away from my table.  I never knew that. “Is that chair spare?” Ok, so now I stop looking like a looser whose date hasn’t shown up. Now I just look like a looser with no date! I stand to leave Wetherspoons. That’s interesting . . . I can feel the effects of the pint of cider I’ve jus consumed. I have a whole tow minutes walk ahead of me now to get to Halifax Minster, scene of the next highlight of Heather’s day.

IMG_6420

Setting up for the Black Dyke Mills band in Halifax Minster

Anyway it’s time I made my way over to Halifax Minster for the brass part of the day. For me, one of the highlights of last year’s trip to England was seeing the Black Dyke Mills Band perform in their original home  – the Queensbury Mill. Tonight I have the opportunity to see the most recorded band in the world perform in a church where so many of my ancestors were married. CDs were available on a table and I half jokingly asked if it were possible to get one signed.’My name is Heather, and I’ve come all the way from California!’  ‘I’ll see what I can do” was the response. I found a seat in the fourth row of pews from the front, just behind the mayor and mayoress  and settled back for the two hour concert of hymns and lighter music such as I only have eyes for you, and Mack the IMG_6428Knife. The soloists came to stand at the front of the band and conductor Nicholas Childs connected with his audience well with little quips here and there. Imagine my surprise when he announced, ‘We have a special guest with us tonight who has come all the way from California – so we know she’s a rich lady! Where are you?’ I had no alternative but to slowly raise my hand! Some  of the musicians are still in college and the baritone soloist was making her first solo performance at the age of 18, since the leader of her section was participating in a concert at the Royal Northern School of Music. I had been concerned that the concert might sell out, but I guess going to a brass band concert is no big deal in this part of the world, even when it’s one of the most famous in the world, but there were tons of empty seats. At the end of the performance I picked up my personally signed CD.

IMG_6431

Getting back home was a doddle. A five minute walk took me back to the bus station and the bus for Hebden Bridge was in. It’s the first time I’ve been out in the semi darkness and it was nice to see the lights of the isolated houses lit up on the hillsides. It reminded me of growing up at Affetside. I passed the Wainhouse Tower, too, with its floodlights.

Torrential rain, tea and the theatre

rainI’m cold – seriously cold for the first time on my trip. It doesn’t help that several times every minute the doors  into the market hall open to the outside and a blast of cold, wet air ruffles my hair and cools my cappuccino. I’m sitting by the outside door  in Todmorden market hall, lured into this delightful coffee bar inside by the promise of ice cream, ice lollies, frappes on this cold wet morning. Valiant shoppers clad in their finest rain gear greet each other with ‘It’s like a monsoon’ and ‘I’m getting me sandbags ready’ inside of the normal ‘Yawreet?’ – and they’re not kidding.  ‘A medium latte and a weak tea.’ Blasts from my past hit me like stray water droplets which are, incidentally, currently descending from the roof in ever increasing numbers, many of them erring in their journey and missing the strategically placed buckets on the passageway below. Well, I presume the buckets are place to catch the mini-waterfalls, though many of them seem destined to trip the unsuspecting shopper.’The usual.’

baker

Can I buy the baker?

There’s a travel mug for sale with the word Wakey Wakey emblazoned in blue. This was the catch phrase of Billy Cotton whose band show was a regular part of Sunday dinner time on the radio at 3rd Bungalow before we got a telly in 1965.  Mr Men and Little Miss travel mugs on the shelf in front of me bring to mind my daughters’ childhoods. Bombarded by so many characters I’m trying to decide which one would suit which daughter: there’s Little Miss Chatterbox and Little Miss Princess for sure. Suddenly my table takes flight. It turns out that my ‘table’ is actually a horizontal door and my barista needs to leave for what I suppose is a non-coffee-break.

nighties

Not quite three sheets to the wind

 

The market stalls here bring back my own youth. Bolton market hall was a similar building, just a bigger version,  with exposed wrought iron girders supporting a glass ceiling. Butchers’ shops display  tripe, black puddings, tomato sausages and pork pies. I ask the butcher about a beef steak wrapped in pastry. “Just the ticket,” he says, “for a romantic dinner for two.” “Do you supply the man?” I asked with a straight face. Bakeries tempt with vanilla slices (ok, I succumbed)  and Manchester tart (something from the red light district perhaps?)  the baker explains with a straight face that the Manchester tarts are firmer than  Bakewell tarts. And then  the cheese shop presents me with a very difficult decision between Wensleydale with cranberries and Wensleydale with apricots. At this moment my pen gives up the ghost. “Wanna use mine?” comes from my right. “Ta.”

butcher

Can I interest you in some tripe, luv?

The display of teas  in front of me is impressive: Elderflower, Artic Fire. “I wonder if that should be Arctic?” I idly comment to the man on my left. He considers the question rather more intently than I expected and suggests that the only artic he can think of is the colloquial term for an articulated lorry. We mutually decide that  it should Arctic. Other flavors beckon me to exotic, far distant land: Russian caravan, Jasmine Flower, Todmorden water blend – well, perhaps not that one!  Coffee blends include Rwanda Cocagi cup of excellence, coffee Sulawesi, Kalossi and Brazilian Ipanema (sounds vaguely musical). This bar would not be out of place as a high end coffee bar in San Francisco. Instead the Exchange Coffee Company has shops in Clitheroe and Skipton market halls, besides this one here in Tod. After taking photos of the canisters and chatting to people on either side of me I leave. I offer the pen back to its owner. ‘Yawreet” I’m told with a smile and a thumbs up sign.

IMG_6319

Through the doors the outside market is slowly drowning in liquid sunshine. Rain is penetrating the punnets of strawberries (fresh from Southport) while the apricots (6 for £1) appear to be stewing themselves. Only half the stalls are up and running today. I chatted to the fishmonger. His scallops attracted my attention! Well, they were bright orange. “Coral scallops from th’ Isle o’Mann. Best money cun buy,” I was reliably informed. It wouldn’t have taken much more water for his haddock and kippers to swim back unaided to the sea. Bizarrely several dozen nighties are wafting vociferously in the gathering wind waltzing their own personal version of the Todmorden rain-dance. I dodge the waist-high  spray the cars kick up as they navigate the tiny streets and head back to the bus station, my bag considerably heavier than on the outward journey. Two incidents completed the adventure. The bus was hit by a passing truck – the second such incident on this trip. Neither vehicle stopped but we did come to  a grinding halt when a tractor inadvertently pulled out of a farm track. The farmer was wearing a suit and tie – no kidding!

home agian

My finds

Later that day  I had my first excursion by bus for an evening event. I went back into Todmorden to the Hippodrome Theater to see a production of Accrington Pals by Peter Whelan. ‘The title refers to the 700 strong Accrington Battalion that march jauntily off to war in the summer of 1916.’  Last night marked the re-opening of this historic theater (1908) after last year’s floods. It’s a grand affair with a  balcony. The play was staged to coincide with the 100th anniversary of the

IMG_6339

Hippodrome Theatre, Todmorden

battle of the Somme. It was funny, intensely moving and very well produced. One thing I didn’t expect was full male nudity. When they used an arrangement for brass band of Elgar’s Nimrod I reached for my hankie. Movingly there was no curtain call since dead soldiers don’t come back.

I’d checked on the finishing time by putting a question on the company’s Facebook page which they’d answered immediately so I knew it wasn’t scheduled to finish til 10. It was still light (ish) as I walked back to the bus station, only to find that I was the only person there for most of the half hour I had to wait. It was only a couple of minutes walk from the bus t’th’ mill so I was back home by 10:45 after a very varied day.

 

A slow beginning . . .

. . . to a busy day.

So today was the first day I didn’t wake up with a plan already hatched. In fact, I didn’t leave the house until after lunch – can you believe that? I thought I’d try and catch up with some family history research online since Angela had some serious doubts about my Tempests of Tong  connection, saying that she didn’t believe  the Barracloughs would have moved so far. I also tried to further my plans for what to do after I leave the mill, emailing my brother-in-law, trying a travel agent (yes, they still exist, though I haven’t used one since my trip to India in the early 80’s, and trying to figure out if I can get back by public transport if I go to a play tonight in Todmorden. So I tackled all that while having the opening games of Wimbledon on in the background.

IMG_6283After lunch I was undecided whether to take a walk in Luddenden Foot, retracing some of Branwell Brontë’s footsteps or go to find Hardcastle Crags. The latter won after I sought  advice at the tourist information center in town. It was a place that I had heard my mum talk about a lot. She may even have taken me there as a very small child but I have no recollection of it. I followed what was billed as ‘an easy walk, mainly on the flat.’ It was anything BUT flat, and what I had mistakenly thought was a gentle half hour stroll along the river (well, Beccie said it was) turned out to be a 6 1/2 mile hike.

IMG_6277I passed through the square where I saw Chris with her pro-Palestinian banners that she’d been designing last night, and then went off into the woods with my map. Within 15 minutes it started to pour down. I mean, really pour down. 2 elderly gentlemen chatting by their allotment said,’Yaw right, luv?’ and that was that! I had flights of steep narrow stone stairs to contend with, rock hopping, mud squelching, cobbled pack horse bridges as I followed the river up to Midgehole,a tiny hamlet, before entering National Trust land and the entrance to Hardcastle Crags. I followed a wide boring path that was obviously a service road, and the one mile to Gibson Mill was totally wrong. I was spurred on, however, IMG_6246.JPGby the sign that said Cafe Open til 4 p.m. It was 3:15 so I made as good a time as possible and arrived in time for tea and a wander around the weaving sheds, that had been turned into tea rooms by the time my mom went. at one time it had also served as a roller skating rink. The view from the mill pond was lovely and the reflections were perfect. I chatted with a lady who was giving directions to workmen and she apologized for the poor sign-posting at the entrance to the park. I should have followed the mill walk for a more interesting route. I did that on the way back, at one point in the darkness of the woods, besides the rushing river a pterodactyl flew overhead following the line of the water. experiencing yet another deluge as I passed the defunct bowling club.

IMG_6265

Reflections of Gibson Mill

 

“In a deep gorge under palaeolithic moorland

Meditation of conifers, a hide-out of elation,

Is a grave of echoes.

Name-lists off cenotaphs tangle here to mystify

The voice of the dilapidated river.”

from Hardcastle Crags by Ted Hughes

A sketch performance of a theater production about the day of the floods ended the day. held in the town hall this was part of the Hebden Bridge festival and Chris and Beccie and couple who are AirB&B with Beccie came along too. it was brilliant, really giving a sense of the personal impact of not only the day of the flood but the huge clean up operation that is still visible in many of the businesses about town. I presume it’s just the same in people’s homes – I just can’t see it.

I’m feeling proud of myself

IMG_6126

Salt’s Mill

Last year when I was staying with Judith we spent a day in Saltaire – a World Heritage site. A set of mills built by Titus Salt on the river Aire have been turned into lovely cafes,restaurants but the center piece is the David Hockney gallery, one’s of Bradford’s famous sons. This time I wanted to see the village  that Salt built for his workers, the almshouses, the hospital, the churches. But first I wanted to take a hike, following a map that the site produces that I had picked up somewhere on my travels. This was to be my first real hike alone and I had concerns about  getting lost, cows and five barred gates, but I’m still here to tell the tale, so I’m feeling very proud of myself.

IMG_6128

Hiking above Salt’s mill

After a quick shufti in Salt’s Mill accompanied by tea and crumpets I set out on the hike and promptly found myself confronted with two grassy paths leading behind a barn. Ok, I took the wrong one but soon it met up with the right one and I climbed up an escarpment with great views of Saltaire below. I only passed two men out walking their dogs before meeting the towpath halfway through the hike. It obviously pays well to know your trees in this part of the world with instructions in the guide like,’with the sliver birch coppice on your left’ and ‘head for the mature trees at the top of the hill.’ The grassy paths led

IMG_6137

A selfie on the trail

past Blaidon rocks until with one sharp turn I found myself in the middle of the same village of Blaidon, with a shop called Bagpuss, very expensive houses and a lovely little community garden.  Continuing I came to Tong dam. Dam it, I thought, I’m sure there’s some connection in my ancestry with Tong Hall, but I didn’t have the info with me, but I didn’t see any sign of Tong Hall. Eventually I crossed the River Aire via a very long bridge with some interesting spiders’ webs – Ok, now I get why it’s called Saltaire – duh – and joined the tow path of the Leeds Liverpool canal. The only TV program I’ve watched so far on this trip (apart from the UEFA cup) was a documentary about the building of the Manchester ship canal, specifically about the lives of the workers who built it.

IMG_6150

Blaidon’s community garden

The towpath took me back to Salt’s Mill by which time my feet were tired. What a great way to get to the mill coming at it along the canal and river which was its whole raison d’être. I was ready for a cuppa and hungry too so I found a little cafe and then explored the village that Salt had built for all his employees, not just the bosses.

The bus journey back to Bradford enable a glimpse into this multi-ethic city since the schools had just finished for the day and the streets were back with kids walking home and catching buses. That’s something that’s not that common in the US since so many students are picked up in cars.

Back a’th’ mill I had time to prepare dinner – shepherd’s pie, sprouts, a cream donut and delicious pear cider – before watching England lose to Iceland 🙁

 

The Amazing hand-made parade

Luckily the weather stayed dry for the morning’s parade. I went up to the gathering area to see the participants assembling, the bands rehearsing and the dancers practicing their routines. There were lots of stilt walkers who had to negotiate big muddy puddles and  potholed streets. I think the photos speak for themselves, though I’d love to know how many people were in the parade, and how many tourists packed into this small town. I heard several conversations about the parking problems onlookers were having, and the main road came to a complete standstill. Drivers were getting out of their cars to view the show. A bus was completely stuck, unable to move.

I took my first  nap of the trip after all the excitement – stimulation overload! I woke up to find Chris, Paula and Beccie had set up an ice-cream, cake and cookie stall on the tow path right under our window. They were raising money for cancer research and they had a constant stream of customers returning from the parade. Beccie is raising money for a sponsored bicycle ride through Cambodia.

IMG_6087-3

Canal scene

I looked up buses to various places to spend the evening but Sunday services are the pits. So I decided to walk to the next town Mytholmroyd. As I left it began to pour down, and stayed that way until I got back an hour and a half later. I listened to music from my phone

as I walked, passing through the village but decided to give up and retrace my steps when I got to a modern industrial estate. A few days ago I asked someone if they were from

IMG_6090

Art work on a disused mill

Hebden Bridge. ‘Oh no, we’re not from this area. We’re from Mytholmroyd.’ It’s all of one and a half  miles away!

IMG_6099

In the evening I managed to connected with Sarah and Danny through Facebook’sIMG_6080IMG_6079IMG_6077IMG_6076IMG_6078 messenger – thank you, Danny. It’s free! The phone calls I’d made back home were costing me a pound per minute.

 

IMG_5920

Journal writing in the town square this morning

IMG_6109

Feeling like a drowned rat after my hike in the pouring rain – but a happy rat all the same!

« Older posts Newer posts »